This is the December 2000 issue of the Carving and Tool Tips section.
Please submit your favorite tool or carving tip via email. All tips or techniques submitted should be "original" in nature (not seen on a list server, newsgroups, magazine, or other medium) to your knowledge, as they may be copyrighted and subject to legal action by such organizations. All tool tips are subject to copyright laws, and may only be reproduced with written authorization from PJL Enterprises or the original author. When you submit a tool tip, please include your web site URL, as it will be used in the preface of the tool tip (i.e., a free permanent link)
Check out the previous tool tips to get more useful, and timely carving and tool tips.
How to make fuzzy hair, for my teddy bear.
You may remember seeing the pattern below in last month's tool tip, where I discussed a new method for transferring patterns to wood. I happen to take that same piece of wood with me to a craft show a few weeks back, and sat down to finish it.
I outlined most of the girl, and even the teddy bear, but then realized I hadn't thought out how I would make the bear look fuzzy (Doh!). The picture below is what I came up with. As this was a "direct" scan into my computer, you can't really see that the wood on the teddy is actually raised up a bit above the rest of the surface (yes, you can even feel it).
I had heard this tip a few years back from a good customer of mine at a carving show, and after using it myself, found that it can be quite useful. This technique is done using a #5 "Spear Point" burning pen at a medium low setting. Each piece of "fur" is put in somewhat randomly, as you don't want a pattern to form (don't do each hair in a row).
.
Photo of #5 Spear Point pen tip
As the first graphic below illustrates, you need to use the pen with the flat/wide side of the pen tip facing your wood at a low angle of attack. Just jab the pen tip in a little bit, not much is needed (1/32" to 1/16th") You also need to go "with" the grain when doing this. Also, when you cut wood with the grain, and it tends to rip up more when going one direction than it does when cutting it in the opposite direction. That is because the grain is also going downwards into the depth of the wood (so it tends to rip up more). This is also the direction you may want to go when doing this, to get a more pronounced effect.
After pushing the end of the pen tip just under the surface, quickly twist your pen body 20 to 30 degrees in one direction or the other. This helps add to the "random-ness" of your raised fur, as some will be twisted one way, and some the other way. You might want to experiment when doing this, as you may be able to get fur that is on the side of a bear's face (for example) to be lighter or darker in some areas by just twisting your pen in only one direction in certain areas.
As illustrated by the the graphic below, you can get the fur to stand up more by raising the back of your pen up, so that your pen is at 40 to 50 degrees right before pulling it out. After a bit of practice, you'll find yourself twisting, and and raising the back of the pen, at the same time. This is perfectly normal and is how I tend to do it also.
You, and maybe others around you, may see how furry this technique makes your subject look, and may want to feel it (DON'T). The picture up above had much of its fuzziness removed because I mistakenly let people around watching me feel it. If you do feel it, do so very lightly. A good finish on your pyrography after your done should also keep individual "hairs" from falling out (because it's fuzzy looking, people will tend to touch that part of it). Also, if you pack up your finished work for travel, make sure nothing heavy is on top of it.
In case your wondering, the insides of the bears ears, and the patches at the end of the feet and arms, were done by just dotting the wood with the #5 pen at a 90 degree angle (a kind of pointillism). The dress, smock, shoes, and ribbon were done using the #13 shading pen (medium), the girl's hair and socks (including stitching on her patches and teddy bear) were done using the #12 small rounded blade pen, and the pattern was outlined and dotted (eyes, dots on dress) using the new #9 modified pen tip.
Check out the previous tool tips to get more
useful, and timely carving and tool tips.
Home
(Frames).... Home (No Frames)
Optima 1 Pyrographic Tool.... Optima 1 Pen
Styles.... Optima 2 Motor Tool.... Ultima
Combination Tool..... Books and Videos
Price List Order Form
Customer Support & FAQ.... Documents & Downloads.... Carving & Tool Tips.... Wood Carving Links.....Search PJL....Contact Information